UK Karting - Notice Board (2-Stroke Karting) : Re: Rotax clutch housing problem!!

Notice Board (2-Stroke Karting)

Re: Rotax clutch housing problem!!
Posted by 'alanrr' on 10 Mar 2011 @ 23:53

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alanrrJoined: August 2001
Total Posts: 491
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Whe you say you intend to use it this season, does that mean actually racing it?

If the answer is yes then I'll help you out on the weekend if you want, presuming you're going to Rye House as per your profile.

If you're not racing and Im free that weekend, I'd pop down and help you anyway.

Now back to the clutch.

Grasping the toothed backplate, pull it in and out.

It should have what they call end float and if you are any good at approximating distance, it'll be anything up to 1mm and you should hear a distinctive clunk as you pull it in and out.

Turning to the cover, depending on the wear on the washer, whether you have a genuine sprocket fitted to the drum and hopefully you have the thrust washer behind the cover fitted, the in and out play should be anything from almost nothing, up to about 1/2 a mm.

It shouldn't have much perceptible 'wobbly' play.

If it has, try a new roller bearing and a new washer under the nut, just for good measure.

If you intend to race, then get the new style bearing with the 'O' ring.

It could be that the bearing has been run dry and has worn the crank and it may be neccessary to measure the wear on the crank shaft.

The sprocket can get worn at the centre and if the washer is badly worn then it is likely that the sprocket could be worn if it wasn't new when the clutch was replaced.

If the chain has been run too tightly it can cause significant wear on the sprocket and crank.

Rebuilds:

Yo say yours has done about 16 hours.

In that time we would have had three top end rebuilds but if you're fun karting or fun club racing thenyou could run to 20 hours before thinking about a top end rebuild.

A full rebuild at about 40 hours and definitely by 50 hours although we stretched one to well past that and still had great performance but they get to the stage where they seem to go very fast just before letting go in a very expensive manner.

If the engine hasn't been used for a while, take it easy for the first session in case the crank seals or the water pump seal has dried or shunk.

Check the oil in the gear side and make sure it's got water with antifreeze in the rad.

Don't use the fuel if it's very old and check that the oil you have hasn't curdled, it should flow freely without being 'lumpy'.

Hopefully you've kept the battery topped up with a charge, if not, you may find it fails quite early.

Make sure the brake is solid under your foot, in case air has entered the system.

That'll do to go on with.

Message Thread:

Rotax clutch housing problem!! by 'octanejim' (09 Mar 2011 @ 22:12)

Re: Rotax clutch housing problem!! by 'raceinstructor' (09 Mar 2011 @ 22:26)

Re: Rotax clutch housing problem!! by 'alanrr' (10 Mar 2011 @ 1:01)

Re: Rotax clutch housing problem!! by 'octanejim' (10 Mar 2011 @ 23:00)

Re: Rotax clutch housing problem!! by 'alanrr' << You are here!

Re: Rotax clutch housing problem!! by 'octanejim' (11 Mar 2011 @ 22:44)

Re: Rotax clutch housing problem!! by 'alanrr' (11 Mar 2011 @ 23:36)

Re: Rotax clutch housing problem!! by 'octanejim' (12 Mar 2011 @ 18:38)

Re: Rotax clutch housing problem!! by 'alanrr' (12 Mar 2011 @ 21:31)

Re: Rotax clutch housing problem!! by 'jc82' (13 Mar 2011 @ 11:07)

Re: Rotax clutch housing problem - Alanrr by 'HarryH1997' (13 Mar 2011 @ 12:50)

Re: Rotax clutch housing problem - Alanrr by 'alanrr' (13 Mar 2011 @ 15:13)

Re: Rotax clutch housing problem!! by 'lbsf1' (13 Mar 2011 @ 17:39)

Re: Rotax clutch housing problem!! by 'HarryH1997' (13 Mar 2011 @ 18:47)

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