Errrrr...... wow.... such a lot of confusions....
1) Don't warm the AXLE.... you want THAT to remain cool! Steel axles (well..... ALL steel)are at their narrowest when cold. Carriers have the largest 'bore' when HOT (but not molten!!!).
2) Warm the CARRIER..... the engineer is correct (but in a bizarre way!). Warming the carrier will EXPAND it and THAT will release it from the axle (if it all possible) that's EXACTLY how we get Iron Liners out of Alloy Barrels. Where he got the idea that the differential COOLING rate (as you quoted) comes into it... I can't imagine!..... unless you were proposing freezing the axle..... not an ideal option!
3) Many 100cc FULL power motors are run with just 3 bolts holding the sprocket. Personally, I don't like that, I prefer the 6. However, it's MUCH faster to remove. With the lower power of a cadet, 3 should be FINE (unless Kevlars are suspect in this area)
4) If you remove the carrier with the sprocket, you'll need to re-align the sprockets.... and THAT (done well) can take more time than the 6 bolts. Done badly is a DISASTER! Removing the sprocket leaves the carrier correctly aligned.
5) Kevlars sound exciting....... but why bother? I bet they are more expensive, too!
6) Many carriers have a 'lip' (to align the sprocket correctly) on BOTH sides. You can often mount the sprocket on EITHER side. In 'tight' cicumstances, the overall width of the carrier/chain/sprocket can be reduced by mounting the sprocket on the SAME side as the clamp bolt. Depending on the size of the hub and the wheel offset, part of the carrier then 'sockets itself' inside the wheel rim, thus reducing the effective width even further.
If it's STILL stuck..... get aggressive
a) Grease the axle on the INNER side
b) Remove the clamp bolt and Sprocket.
c) use a 'drift' (piece of hard wood) and HAMMER the sprocket further ON to the axle and thus onto the grease. Don't drive it TOO far or you can't get it back again.
d) grease the OUTSIDE of the axle and, using the drift, hammer it BACK over the newly greased area and off again!
e) if the move INWARD has exposed corrosion on the axle, clean it with a thin strip of emery CLOTH like you would use a towel to dry your back after a shower (left-right pulls).
f) if the carroer won't move at all, drive a flat blade screw driver DOWN between the split andf THEN use the drift. (Use and old screw driver to avoid splitting the handle of a GOOD one!)
g) if it STILL won't move, use the heat source to hear the CARRIER while trying to 'miss' the axle. A heat gun will be sufficient, a plumbers flame gun will do it faster if with considerably more risks: if you MUST use a flame, take EXTREME care for your safety!
If all else fails, the carrier is KNACKERED anyway. Use a hacksaw and cut a SECOND split in it and release it that way.
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My guess is that it has got wet and has 'rusted' (corroded) itself to your axle. Next time.... remove the sprocket carrier after a wet race and dry it all.
Keeping the axle clean and greased/oiled should help. However, I have suffered FAR more frequently from carriers/hubs SLIDING on axles than I have in having them STUCK. I prefer to use a COMPLETELY dry and grease-free joint on the basis I'd rather 'hammer' it off IN the pits and have it move out on the TRACK!
Good luck!
Ian
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sprocket carrier stuck by 'Bucky' (09 May 2010 @ 23:27)
