EVERY dyno will give you a different reading or value depending on several factors. Some are electric resistance, some are water brakes, some believe it or not are air resistance (thankfully very rare now), the general condition of the dyno and state of wear, the conditions it is being used in etc etc etc.
The only real use of a dyno print out is as a comparitor, at the same tuner, since the last time you had an engine tested there, and even then if the dyno has been calibrated in exactly the same manner as it had been prior to your last visit.
Comparing a Force dyno sheet to an Ogden sheet to a CAT sheet etc, actually has very little value, unless they all had the same brand and model of dyno, roughly the same age and condition, and calibrated by the same person using the same method and equipment.
It's a bit like a Samsung 800w Microwave being compared to a Phillips 800w Microwave. They both claim to be 800w, but in reality they could be several watts difference, but who cares that the Samsung heats your food 10 seconds quicker?
Going back to your dyno sheet, I have found that finding a tuner you trust and sticking with them is the best road to go down, as you get continuity of service, better/more consistant advice and in your case, the same system of dyno testing to verify whether an engine has improved or not, or when considering purchasing another engine, you will know instantly whether or not it is better than what you already own.
Food for thought.
Now to answer your question about the dyno reading you have from Force. The figure refers to the area below the graphs curve, and yes it is a 'reasonable' output figure, not great but reasonable. But that has to be read not just as a figure on it's own, but in conjuction with the shape of the curve and run times.
Why don't you call John davies at Force and discuss it with him, he will be able to enlighten you completely.
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Dyno Results by 'jackson5' (14 Mar 2009 @ 7:37)
