Step 1) Go to your Gold Book. Para B 1.3
"B1.3 Chassis. MSA homologated Cadet chassis only. The chassis must remain as
homologated in all respects and may only be subject to approved modifications for safety reasons.
A chassis manufacturer will be permitted to homologate one chassis model for any three year period
and homologations will last for a total of three successive periods (nine years). The current
homologation period for chassis and brakes commenced 1.1.2011; the next period will commence
1.1.2014. A full list of current homologated chassis is included in Appendix 1."
There are a few other rules and regs, so its worth looking: eg: if the kart is homolgated with a rear bar, it must be raced with teh rear bar, so make sure its there when you buy it.
Appendix 1 gives a long list of homologated chassis
from the 2004 homologation onwards (the 2001 is out of date and the next homologation that will put a 2004 chassis out is in 2014.
Step 2) If you haven't bought a kart before, get advice about the condition and price. Make sure the kart is straight before you buy. It's a trivial measurement requiring four bob weights and a measuring tape. (a: level the kart on a trolley with a spirit level,b) hang the weights from the rear axle hangers and the front yokes and C) measure diagonally from rear left to front right, rear right to front left. d) The two distances should be identical.
Step 3: Strip the kart to individual pieces, including things like pedals. replace anything that moves that is worn. (eg: the bolts that hold the pedals onto the chassis). Mark the holes that the seat is on and take it off.
Unless they are new, replace things like throttle cable inners and outers and bent, worn bolts or any nyloc that's been used more than once.
(it's a good idea to photograph every step of what you are doing, especially if you don't have any engineering experience.)
Step 4.) Clean off the chassis and inspect every joint, especially seat mountings, the A frames that hold the steering and so on. If there are any cracks in or near the welds, get them rewelded.
If the seat has lots of mounting holes in the sides, then do a proper repair or get a new seat.
Test the driver in the seat, out of the kart. It should be tight enough to cling to the drivers hips and ribs and hold on to him when he stands up. If it is loose, pad it up with dense neoprene. If it's too loose, get a smaller seat.
Step5) Rebuild. Clean, inspect, repair and put back all the assemblies you took off. (things like the brakes, you need to know how they come apart, what can be replaced and how to put them back together...including how to bleed them.
There's lots of advice on the forum, sometimes simple things like 'how do I get the bearings out of the hangers? ' (They rotate sideways and slip out at one special spot).
Some bits have a trick to them. Axles for example, sometimes just slide out, sometimes need a bigger hammer, sometimes need careful cleaning first and sometimes you'd be better off cutting them out, because when you really need change an axle, the last thing you need is one that has been bruised in the past (yes, metal bruises) and won't come off without expert persuasion (spelt " very big hammer and knowing where to hit it").
Step 6. Fitting Junior into the kart. Decide on a basic weight and balance (ask around to find out what works). Do the calculations, either by weight scale or 'pipe method'. Mount the seat. Adjust the controls so the driver is comfortable. If his legs don't reach the pedals, bring the pedals to him, not move the seat to the pedals.
Step 6.1) Know how to set up the steering and what toe in/out , caster and camber mean, (even if you don't have the means to adjust caster / camber.)
When you start tuning for weight and balance, which is when the driver can do regular laps, a series of five or ten all within 0.2 of a second of each other on warm tyres, do it by fitting lead, even if it means going overweight. That way you only drill one extra pair of holes instead of many.
I haven't mentioned the engine, because that's a whole different ballgame.
HTH. It's the newbie guide to starting karting, regardless of the class you are joining. Some of it changes, for example, if you are buying from a dealer who has stripped and repaired the kart already, then you don't need to do it all over again, but it is good practise to have found out how the bits work before you get to the track.
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