You should set up the toe and camber with the driver out of the kart.
Then put the driver in the kart and see where your settings move to.
For example, if I want my wheels to be parallel, I set them up with 2 degrees toe out, because with the driver in, the kart flexes 2 degrees toe in.
If the driver is heavy enough to flex the kart, then he is too heavy to adjust the settings with the driver in the kart. (Like turning the steering at rest, even in a car, stresses the steering components.)
The other thing to look out for is whether the kart has taken a 'set', from the last session on the track. There's no point trying to set caster and camber etc if the kart has a 'set'.
For example, if the front end has taken a 1mm lift, from running a kerb say, and you are using a laser, then the dot from one wheel will point one mm low on the target, even though it is level.
This is why you set up to a known 'zero', ie trackrods with length 'X', castor and camber to neutral, should give you toe of "Y" usually 0 and on the median line. Set the kart to these settings and check that the readings are what you recorded last time.
|
|