The hub is really only gripped at the point where the Allen bolt is.
The rest can allow the hub to move between the steel and mag/ally hub, albeit only fractionally.
This is actually a useful factor and can be expanded upon by using a certain machining method to simulate a short axle.
The deposit can be quite heavy on some hubs and regular cleaning is needed.
I've always wiped the axle and hub with a dampened WD40 cloth to leave a hint of residual lubrication and not suffered with hubs moving in.
If you think about the construction of the hub, you can see that the pinch bolt cannot act fully on the full length of the slot and has a decreasing influence towards the end of the slot.
This build up can tend to 'freeze' hubs on the axle when it accumulates over time and some hubs are worse than others in how much they slough off. I suppose you could liken it to steel fretting.
The movement is probably in the order of 3-4 nanometers but it's a constant movement when the kart is in motion.
The constant movement causes material transfer on the surfaces, often followed by oxidation of both the metallic debris and the freshly exposed surfaces. The oxidized debris is usually much harder than the surfaces from which it came, it acts as an abrasive that increases the rate of both fretting and a mechanical wear called false brinelling.
That's not what you actually wanted to hear, is it Dave? Utter tripe!
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