As lard ass says a call to Strawberry with the chassis number will pin it down. But the outline differences (but be careful as some of the bits are interchangeable) you can see on any OTK (Tony kart, Alonso, Exprit, Kosmic) is as follows;
2013 - 2014, brake master cylinder is a one piece item rather than built up out of 3 pieces as earlier versions, pedals are mag cast instead of steel chrome and mounted differently, floor tray at the front has a single central fixing with two side supports that are not bolted - the trays sits on rubber buttons. The tank has a side entry filler cap - to one side of the steering column support frame.
2011 - 2012, They don't have the above. Compared to earlier versions the steering wheel is different - larger - different spokes, the steering column base support where the foot rest fits is more flat - parallel to the floor tray, the brake disc carrier is different - it has the disc fixed to one side rather than in between tabs, the rear axle bearing carriers have more seat stay holes. The tank has a central filler cap between the steering column support - meaning you have to fill through the spoke of the steering wheel with an extending funnel or a can with a nose!
2009 - 2010 They don't have the above, the steering column base support where the foot rest fits is sloping, the tank is a squarer shape with a side entry filler, the brake disc carrier has the disc mounted within two tabs rather than to one side - also the pinch bolts are on each side rather than to one side on the later versions - can be a ba*tard during axle changes. The rear axle bearing carriers have less seat stay holes - only two each side. The steering wheel has a different spoke layout.
They say the 2013 - 14 have 'more front end' whatever that means?? I think it means sharper turn in etc. a few people I know say they went faster on the 2013 - 2014.
Watch out for chassis cracking immediately in front of the rear bearing carriers which is normally welded over and / or sleaved. Only normally occurs after a lot of use or abuse.
Also watch out for cracking immediately behind the front stub axle yokes on the short bit of tube from the yoke to where the next tube welds, only occurs again after a a lot of use or abuse - mainly from hitting kerbs or big shunts. This bit can be bent or twisted which can be found on a jig check or lasers and if the camber caster pils are set to different positions to get the same camber caster. This can be tweaked back. A classic sign also in not cracked is the paint show stress cracks where the steel below has twisted / moved - cracking the paint - but this doesn't always mean the steel is cracked.
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How to tell year of chassis by 'fatkartman' (02 Jan 2015 @ 15:30)
