Can't answer the colour question but the rear width is measured by using a flexible rule and a couple of straight edges across the rims.
It's usually a two man job but you can get it faily accurate by using the rule across the top of the tyres and sighting down across the rims.
Once you have the overall width, you can measure from the bearing face to the edge of the hub and use this measurement to widen or narrow the width. IE, if the bearing to hub measurement is 40mm and you reduce each side by 5mm, you reduce the overall width by 10mm.
The thing is to make sure the axle is actually set evenly in the first place.
Remove the wheels and hubs and measure from bearing face to the end of the axle on each side, it should be the same.
You should keep the bearing face to hub measurements the same unless you want to start getting really clever and running offset wheels.
Yo can buy hub inserts that are flat plasic discs that fit inside the hubs and allow you to move the hubs out in accurate increments of 5 10 or 15mm by shimming the disks inside the hubs.
Remember that if you are racing, the rear rim edge cannot be inside the outside edge of the side pod.
Front wheel alignment is usually done with lasers nowadays but you can just use a piece of string or flexible rule like they did in yesteryear.
if you mark a spot on each fron tyre in the middle and measure between these points with the marks forward then revolve the wheels and measure the marks at the rear, this will tell you if you have toe out, toe in or neutral setting.
If the front measurement is smaller than the rear, then you have toe in, if it is greater, then you have toe out and if it is the same, then you have a neutral setting.
Your Tony will probably have camber and castor adjustment too on the pills on the top and bottom of the king pins.
I could probably send you pictures if this all sounds a bit complicated.
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