Ian is both right and wrong.
If your axle is properly aligned, then chasing 'freedom' can be a waste of time. But if you are a newbie, then how do you know the axle is properly aligned?
As you say, you can spin your axle, but don't know how long it should spin, so provided the axle turns you might assume it is aligned.
This is where the 'string test' of a previous thread is useful. With a fully fitted axle, but minus the chain (and water pump band if you have one), wind a piece of string round the axle a few times and hang a small tool from it, say a 13mm spanner.
The axle should turn under the weight of the tool. It will be slow, but the tool should go all the way down to the ground. That means the axle is free and the brake disc is aligned and not binding.
You can get the axle a lot freer than that, but as Itpro say, it just isn't worth it. Once you get on the track and that chassis flexs, all that alignment can go out the window.
But as a beginner's guide to 'How free should the axle be' it is a quick, predictable and repeatable value. If you need more weights suddenly, then something is wrong, even though the axle may still turn by hand.
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