There is nothing complicated about the Rotax Max engine.
You can replace the crankshaft seals without breaking the Rotaxseal.
To do the water pump however, you do need to break the seal.
Parts are standard and obtainable.
The weak point of the engine is the chocolate con rod and big end bearing and if the engine history is unknown to you, you should replace it and do a full rebuild anyway.
Unless you have the tools, you won't be able to split the crankshaft.
You will also need a tool to remove the clutch backplate.
Seals will come out easily but warming the crankcase never hurts for bearings.
Apart from the Conrod, there is nothing complicated about the Max.
Take a note of the cylinder base gasket as it' s used for the squish gap.
There is an alignment for the gears and measure the end float that the crank has before you dismantle the engine.
There is an online manual which will show you all you need to know, it's a bloody simple two stroke Rotax not a Rolex.
It's all smoke and mirrors and there are builders who manage without dyno's and big ultrasonic cleaners etc.
When the X30 without the seal comes on line, I think things may well change and Rotax will find a new kid on the block with something to offer the karter.
Let the members who regularly use this site (i don't) know how you get on.
|
|