There are a few key points:-
1) Most kart track rods have one end Left-hand thread and the other end is Right-hand. It does not matter which end is which on the kart but it's convenient to keep them the 'same way, e.g., both 'lefts' at the left-hand-end of each track-rod. You'll then always know which is which in a hurry.
Strictly, well manufactured kit will have an 'engraved' ring around the left-hand components, i.e., on the track-rod, track-rod-end and locking nut. Not all manufacturers do this.... sadly!
This allows you to adjust the length of the each 'assembly' simply by loosening the nuts and rotating the rod rather than needing to undo one complete end of the track-rod from the steering or the stub axle.
2) You need to be CERTAIN that you have sufficient thread inside/around the track-rod-end!!!!! I have seen karts where the track-rod was just too short so the user had only screwed 1 or 2 turns into/around the track-rod end..... one clout of the kerb and the track-rod/track-rod-end can part company...... and you visit the scenery VERY quickly!
I go for a minimum of 5 turns in EACH end. If you can't, then your track-rod is the WRONG length!
3) You need to make pretty certain that the same amount of thread is inserted into/around BOTH ENDS of EACH track-rod. The two, separate, track-rods don't need the same amount of thread, just make sure the same number of turns are into each of a ONE track-rod. You do this by removing the WHOLE track-rod from the track-rod-ends and, with the track-rod ends loosely bolted to the steering/stub axle, 'screw' the track-rod into both ends AT THE SAME TIME by rotating the track-rod itself. In that way, each end with have the same number of turns of threads inserted/around it. Make it at least 5 FULL turns of the rod as a minimum!
4) Now.... tighten the track-rod-end bolts to the steering and stub axles.
5) This is an odd, but CRUCIAL part.... and it's hard to explain.....
The track-rod-end is bolted through its 'ball'. If you move the steering, you'll see that the track-rod moves around the ball in TWO directions, not just ONE. Obviously, it moves to allow the track-rod to 'push and pull' but it ALSO rotates at 90 degrees to that movement around the bolt. From full lock one way to the other, you'll see it rotate in the second direction and it needs to move a LONG way in that other direction (sort of: up-and-down).
If the Allen bolt holding the ball has a 'narrow head', this doesn't cause a problem BUT if it's a large headed Hex Bolt rather than an Allen, that movement can make the track-rod-end HIT the bolt head. This can also occur UNDER the ball where it contacts the steering/stub axle.
This does NOT cause a problem while the track-rod-end has NOT been 'locked' with the lock nut...... BUT it CAN cause problems once you 'lock’ it. It'll make the steering 'stiff' and, if it does it, and it'll damage many components in your steering.
If your set-up has this problem... the cure is fairly simple. You either mount small narrow washers, specially made for the job above and below all the balls. This allows the track-rod to rotate around the ball WITHOUT fouling the nut, bolt-head, steering column and/or stub-axle. If you haven't got those washers, you can use similar sized 'spring washers', the sort that appear to be made of EXACTLY one 'turn' of a coil spring!
That's ONE of the 'fouling' problems.... there is another......
6) You might think that you tighten the lock-nut/track-rod-end so that both track-rods are 'facing' EXACTLY the same direction....Nope!!!.... That's the RARITY!!!! What you need to do is something specific....
a) Set the steering to the toe-in/out you require.
b) Centre the steering
c) Rotate BOTH track-rod ends as far FORWARD or BACKWARD on their 'bolt' as they will go! Both ends of ONE track rod MUST be rotated in the SAME DIRECTION. Then, do UP BOTH track-rod-end-locknuts keeping the track rod ends rotated forward or backwards as I said.
The Forward/Backward direction depends on which WORKS for your set-up. What you'll find is that BOTH locknuts will be rotated the SAME way to lock them (because one is a left-hand-thread and the other end is a right-hand-thread). That will rotate the track-rod end in one specific direction where it CANNOT rotate any further be sure the track-rod-end has rotated as far as it can go. When you lock BOTH ends like this, you'll find that your track-rod has the MAXIMUM POSSIBLE amount of 'rotation' available for them and thus, it will NOT 'bind' (foul) on the Allen bolt-head when you go from full lock to full lock.
Please note.... do NOT tighten the track-rod-end-lock-nut FULLY by letting it rotate as far as it can! You will damage the ‘cup’ section of the rod against the bolt. Basically, set them just past finger-tight, then, use a second spanner of the right size to hold the track-rod-end: it will have ‘flats’ caste/machined into it for this job. Hold that spanner so that the track road is rotated forward/backward as before but is not being RAMMED against the bolt. You can now tighten the lock nuts without moving their ‘rotation’ or damaging the ‘cup’ sections.
Without doing this technique, you can EASILY find that the track rod 'runs out' of rotation during the full sweep of your steering. That will make the steering heavy and damage the components.
As I said, it's a nasty one to explain but, when you are doing it, you will see how it can go wrong!
Finally, double and TREBLE check that ALL steering nuts, bolts are all tightened to SAFE levels!
Ian
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Gillard 2009 10b track rod by 'RAF5' (08 Nov 2010 @ 22:35)
