It depends on what you did to adjust them.
Normally karts have track rods where the left (or right) end of each road has a normal thread but the OTHER end has a ‘left-hand thread’. If you loosen and adjust a rod by rotating the rod itself, it will extend (or contract) the rod which will adjust the ‘tracking’ (toe-in/toe-out).
However, if your kart is older, someone may have swapped it/them for cheap rods which have BOTH ends with the same, standard thread. If you simply adjust those by loosening and rotating the rod then…. NOTHING HAPPENS…. except the rod falls out of one end……!
In either case, you need to find how to increase/decrease the length of both rods ROUGHLY equally. Ones with left and right threads are MUCH simpler to do. You simply loosen BOTH ends from thir lock-nuts ands rotate them in/out as required. If you don’t have those, you need to undo BOTH rods from the ‘stub axle control arm’ (drag link) and extend or contract them and then re-attach both and re-measure. Do NOT try to re-measure with laser or tape until you have re-tighten the rods to the stubs.
Two more clues! You’ll know the left-hand thread because it’ll look ODD. Strictly, if you have ‘quality-kit’, the nuts on the left hand thread and the track rod end will be MARKED to say that it IS left hand thread. That’s done by a ‘groove’ passing through the ‘nut faces’ all around the ‘nut’. If yours does NOT have such a ‘groove’, it’s either a cheap and grotty track rod end/nut or it’s NOT a left hand thread on THAT end!
Finally, after you’ve done it all up, make absolutely CERTAIN that the rod has free-play to rotate at BOTH ends of the full lock (I do NOT mean leave the nuts undone!!!!!). If not, you’ll damage the rods, drag links, bolts etc. as the movement will be ‘strangled’. It’s done by adjusting the ‘locking nuts’ and track rod ends to ‘compliment’ the other end.
Finally…. finally…. You should be looking in the range of ROUGHLY 1 to 2 mm of toe-OUT (check the manual) when the kart is on the stand…. Why…? Because, when you sit in the kart, it BENDS and that (usually) forces the kart to toe-in by ROUGHLY 1 to 2mms, thus setting the kart to a REAL 0mm.
Ian
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