I think some of this comes from the experiences of mixing fluids and seals on old French cars and Rolls Royces.
They used real rubber seals and used a vegetable based fluid which worked fine with rubber but expanded and disintegrated with a glycol fluids and there was no going back and just flushing if it was realised very quickly, it was too late.
Seals are now made from 'exotic' materials like neoprene, viton and nitrile and are resistant to a lot more chemicals.
They don't tend to absorb or get contaminated with the fluids they are in contact with.
In fact, dot 3, 4, or 5.1 is in my opinion more favourable as the water doesn't separate out and cause localised corrosion, it is absorbed and held in suspension.
I found silicone also tends to give a softer pedal.
Dot 5 loses its blue colour once exposed too.
I've used dot 4 and 5.1 in the notorious OTK system without the slightest problem.
All of the problems I've ever come across are from poor maintenance and assembly.
Use a red brake grease on assembly to keep out dust and moisture and service them very regularly as there are no dust/water seals on our brakes.
Spraying copious amounts of brake cleaner down the caliper is not the way to free off a sticking caliper, strip and clean it.
I did an experiment on OTK seals some time ago with different fluids and chemicals and apart from cellulose thinners, they held up fine. Even the seal with cellulose thinners returned to normal once it had evaporated.
A good flush and clean with methylated spirits and if the seals are worn or old, replace them. You can tell this if the lips have lost their sharp edge.
Too many kart are left to the next meeting and not cleaned after a wet race. That's when the water gets to work on the alloys and you get the grey/white corrosion on pistons etc.
Still Booney, pick the bones out of that lot. d-i-y71 will tell you I know nothing and he doesn't either! :) We do tend to agree on things though, so he must be old like me. He also doesn't go fast enough to need brakes anyway :)
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